Hydraulic jack factory in Haiyan, China · since 1978

Hydraulic Jack Won’t Lift or Won’t Hold: Troubleshooting and Repair

Why a hydraulic bottle jack or floor jack won’t lift, lifts only partway, sinks under load or leaks, and how to fix it: release valve, oil level, bleeding, cleaning the valves and seal kits.

Wrenches and sockets in a toolbox
Photo: Isabela Kronemberger / Unsplash
Quick answer. Most jacks that won’t lift have a release valve that is not fully closed, low oil or air in the circuit: close the valve, top up with jack oil and bleed. A jack that sinks under load usually has dirt on the release-valve seat or worn seals: flush or clean the valve, then fit a seal kit. Retire any jack with a bent ram, a cracked body or a damaged frame.

A jack that will not lift or will not hold is rarely a broken jack. In practice most cases come down to four things: the release valve, the oil level, air in the circuit, and dirt on a valve seat. Only after those does it make sense to replace seals. This guide goes through the checks in the order we give to distributors’ service teams, with a table to diagnose the symptom first.

Safety first

  • Never work under a jack you are testing, and never repair a jack under load. Lower it fully and remove it from the vehicle.
  • Wear eye protection: hydraulic oil under pressure can spray from a failed seal.
  • Clean the outside of the jack before opening anything, so dirt does not get into the oil.
  • After any repair, test the jack with no load first, then with a load well within its rating.

Quick diagnosis

Symptom Likely causes Fix
Pumps, but the ram does not rise Release valve open; oil very low; air; dirty inlet check valve Fixes 1, 2, 3 and 4
Lifts only part of the way Oil low; air; the load is at the stroke limit Fixes 2 and 3; check the maximum height
Lifts without load, stops under load Load above the rating; worn pump seal; air Check the rating; Fix 3; Fix 5
Sinks slowly under load Dirt on the release-valve seat; worn ram seal; leaking check valve Fixes 1, 4 and 5
Drops suddenly Release valve opened, or a failed seal Stop using it; Fixes 4 and 5 or replace
Spongy handle, jerky lift Air in the circuit Fixes 2 and 3
Oil leaks at the ram Worn or damaged ram seal; scored ram Fix 5; replace if the ram is scored
Oil leaks at the filler plug or vent Overfilled; plug seal damaged; stored on its side Correct the level; replace the plug
Will not lower, or lowers slowly Valve not opened far enough; dry or bent linkage (floor jack); cold, thick oil Open the valve; clean and lubricate; correct oil

Fix 1: Close the release valve properly

A release valve half a turn open looks closed and returns every pump stroke to the reservoir. Turn it clockwise until it is snug. On bottle jacks use the slotted end of the handle; on most floor jacks, twist the handle itself clockwise. Do not force it: an overtightened valve damages its seat and then leaks.

Fix 2: Check and top up the oil

Lower the ram fully, stand the jack upright (bottle jack) or level (floor jack), remove the filler plug and check that the oil reaches the bottom edge of the hole. Top up with hydraulic jack oil only, never motor oil or brake fluid. Our hydraulic jack oil guide shows the right grade and the full procedure.

Fix 3: Bleed the air out

Open the release valve, remove the filler plug and pump the handle six to eight full strokes. Close the valve, refit the plug, then raise the empty ram to full height and lower it again two or three times. Air collects in the pump chamber after low oil, a refill or storage on the jack’s side, and it is the most common cause of a spongy or partial lift.

Fix 4: Flush and clean the valves

A particle of dirt on the ball seat of the release valve or a check valve lets oil escape back to the reservoir, so the jack creeps down.

  1. Flush first. With no load, open the release valve and pump the handle quickly ten to fifteen times. The flow often clears a loose particle. Close the valve and test.
  2. Clean the release valve if it still sinks: unscrew the release valve completely, catch any ball or spring it holds, wipe the valve tip and seat with a lint-free cloth and clean jack oil, and refit it hand-tight.
  3. Change contaminated oil. If the oil is dark or gritty, drain it, flush and refill; otherwise the dirt comes back.

Leave the overload valve alone. It is a separate spring-loaded valve, set and sealed at the factory; turning it changes the capacity at which the jack stops lifting.

Fix 5: Replace the seals

If the jack still sinks under load, will not lift under load or leaks at the ram, the seals are worn. A seal kit contains the ram seal, the pump plunger seal and the O-rings and back-up rings for that model. Replacing them means removing the ram and the pump plunger, so it is a bench job for someone with the model’s service sheet:

  1. Drain the oil and note the order of the parts as they come out.
  2. Inspect the ram and cylinder bore: scoring, pitting or rust on the chrome means the new seals will fail quickly, and the jack should be replaced.
  3. Fit the new seals lubricated with clean jack oil, without twisting them.
  4. Reassemble, refill, bleed, and test with no load, then with a load within the rating.

JackMaker stocks seal kits, pump units and release valves for every catalogue model; quote the model number on the rating label when you order.

Floor jack problems

  • Saddle will not lower fully: clean and lubricate the lift-arm pivots and the linkage; check the return springs.
  • Handle will not open the release valve: the handle yoke or the valve coupling is worn or misaligned; check the pin that connects them.
  • Jack will not roll or veers: clean and lubricate the casters and replace flat-spotted wheels. A floor jack must roll freely while it lifts.
  • Frame or arm bent, welds cracked: do not repair. Replace the jack.

When to replace the jack instead

  • The ram is bent, scored or pitted
  • The body, cylinder or frame is cracked, or a weld has failed
  • The jack has dropped a load, been overloaded or taken a shock load
  • It still sinks after new seals and clean oil
  • The capacity label is missing or unreadable

Maintenance that prevents most problems

Task How often
Look for leaks, damage and a clean ram Before each use
Check the oil level, ram fully lowered Every 3 months in workshop use
Lubricate wheels, pivots and linkage (floor jacks) Every 3 months
Bleed the air After refilling or transport on the side
Change the oil Once a year in workshop use, or when dark or milky

For distributors: after-sales that keeps warranty claims down

Many warranty claims turn out to be wrong oil, air or dirt rather than defects. Print the checks above in your manual, keep a few seal kits for your best-selling models in stock, and train counter staff to ask two questions first: “Is the release valve fully closed?” and “Has it been topped up with anything other than jack oil?” JackMaker jacks carry a 36-month warranty, and seal kits, pump units and release valves are stocked for every model.

Compare our hydraulic bottle jacks, floor jacks and air hydraulic jacks, or contact us about spare parts.

JackMaker Engineering · Factory technical team

Frequently asked questions

Why does my jack go up but not stay up?

Oil is leaking back from the cylinder to the reservoir. The usual causes, in order: the release valve is not fully closed, dirt is holding the release valve or a check valve off its seat, or the ram seal is worn. Close and flush the valve first; if it still sinks under load, fit a seal kit.

Why does my jack feel spongy?

There is air in the hydraulic circuit, usually because the oil is low or the jack was stored on its side. Top up with the ram fully lowered and bleed the jack by pumping with the release valve open.

Why won’t my floor jack go down?

The release valve is not opening far enough, the lift arm pivots are dry or bent, or the return springs are weak. Open the valve fully, push the saddle down by hand without load, and clean and lubricate the linkage.

Can a leaking bottle jack be repaired?

Yes, if the leak comes from a seal: a seal kit replaces the ram and pump seals and O-rings. If oil comes through a crack in the body or the ram is scored or bent, replace the jack.

Should I adjust the overload valve if my jack won’t lift heavy loads?

No. The overload valve is set at the factory just above the rated load. If the jack stops lifting under a load within its rating, the problem is air, oil level or wear; if the load is above the rating, you need a bigger jack.

Is it worth repairing a cheap jack?

Bleeding, topping up and cleaning the release valve cost nothing and fix most problems. A seal kit is worth fitting on a good jack. A jack with structural damage, or one that has dropped a load, should be replaced.

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